At this point most historians would shrug and take their inquiries elsewhere. Hadley, however, persists, collecting as many versions of the story as he can, for he is more of an antiquary than a conventional historian. The antiquary is interested in all the remains of the past, whether written records in parish chests and libraries, or fossils or the traditions of folklore. When the yew was felled it revealed a large empty hole. In the study of the past there is a delicate but critical balance to be struck between taking the evidence seriously and taking it literally.
Hadley strikes it, being neither fanciful on the one side, nor patronising to his subject matter on the other. He talks the reader through his research, the speculations and setbacks, occasionally breaking into excited italics at a particularly good discovery. It was, probably, in a field called Great Pepsells, but field patterns have long since vanished and the names have gone with them. Fortunately, however, in the s, when they were still on the cusp of living memory, there was a nationwide project to record them. Schoolchildren were deployed, and by March the Brent Pelham parish magazine could report that Miss Prior, the local headmistress, and her pupils, had managed to collect them all by interviewing farmers and labourers.
The names and accompanying maps were gathered from across England and stored in University College London, where they were all destroyed in the blitz. Luckily, there are copies of the Pelham maps in the church chest at Furneux Pelham, the next parish to Brent, and Hadley is soon poring over them. So it goes in the snakes-and-ladders process of research. The past you find depends on the present you start from, for history is always on the move.
Evidence is found and lost and found again. Some details, like the field names, get more sparse over the centuries, while others multiply suspiciously as the outline of a legend is filled in with the retelling. In the cast expanded again.
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The version published in The Reliquary is the literary equivalent of the most drastic kind of Victorian church restoration, in which all that remains of the Middle Ages is obliterated in the name of improvement. It is a scene from a Burne-Jones tapestry and so, like all the versions of the story, if it gets us no nearer to Shonks, it opens a window on the world of the teller. Taking another tack, Hadley pursues the origins of the tombstone itself to the Isle of Purbeck, where it was quarried from open-cast mines.
An automated system has many different parts that can fail. You must regularly monitor that things are working without getting complacent. The advantage of a misting system is that it works through the day when you are not there. That is the trap, of course. Because you are not there to ensure that it is still working. Any number of things from forgetfulness to failure can, and one day will, go wrong. You do not know when that failure will occur.
Here is a non-exhaustive list of very possible failures that could affect common misting systems. Mister is clogged. The most common use of this is using water with mineral content. But a random material weakness in manufacturing can cause this unexpectedly, as well.
When the top line pumps Mist King or Aqua Zamp run dry turn on when there is no water in the reservoir they often have trouble getting themselves back to full water moving capacity. Reconnect the outlet tubing and test the system. Always consider that your pump may have run dry if you change out your water once it is too low for the pump to have functioned properly. You could very well have a full reservoir and very little water going to your pets.
Note: Economically priced pumps may just overheat and break if run dry. Power is disrupted. Does it get shifted so your water cycles happen at night instead of when your pet is awake? Know your how your timer functions.
Timer is left in off position. You may be doing everything right on schedule, but accidentally left the timer in the off position. It happens. Just make sure you have a number of tests you do to catch it. But your tests should also include how often you refill your water reservoir and how often you need to empty your drainage tray. Any deviation from the normal schedule should be viewed with concern.
Water is dry. The most common failure point is an empty water reservoir. This is especially true if you use opaque containers. For this reason, I like to use transparent containers. Regardless of what container you use, you need a schedule that you follow to check on water level. So how do we monitor the system?
The best way to tell if the water system is working is the level of water in the drainage tray. For water to get into the drainage tray the entire system had to have worked. There is only one fail point that this does not check — A clogged mister that is dripping instead of misting. So you will still need to do periodic checks every weekend to visually see if the system is working.
But for the daily check, know what level of water you expect in the drainage tray.
You will get a feel for how the level changes each day. If your water input is balanced by evaporation then you may not need to empty the tray often. Your misting schedule and ambient humidity will decide your emptying frequency for you. You can do something as inexpensive as using a turkey baster to suck water out of the tray for disposal elsewhere. If you are interested in this solution order these three parts:. Another option, if you are handy with tools, is attaching a bulkhead to the side of the drainage tray and get a gravity feed to a bucket which is easily carried away for periodic dumping.
This method is described in an article by Luis Weidemann who set one up for his Uroplatus Leaf-tailed Geckos. Uroplatus in Dragon Strand Cages. With a larger collection bucket there more time between emptying the drainage tray. If you take it a step further and use a self-priming pump to dispose of the water for you then your drainage is completely automated. I have used this method for years and love it! You need to retain that intimacy with more rigorous system testing to detect failure points. Once again I remind you, automation just changes the kind of work you must do to maintain a chameleon.
It gives you the freedom for when you perform that maintenance work. But do not let yourself be lulled into complacency because of the freedom that automation allows you. Though it is a major consideration, drainage is actually very simple.
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With Drainage Trays specifically made for common cages it should be no problem to implement. Consider how you will accomplish drainage as part of your initial planning. One of the most important if not the most important elements in successfully caring for reptiles is proper housing. This is especially true when working with species that require specific environmental conditions in order to thrive in captivity.
Take the Leaf Tailed Gecko Uroplatus for instance. Also, many keepers often keep their Uroplatus in naturalistic vivaria, which poses a whole other set of challenges that must be met in order to see long-term success. For instance, one of the more difficult aspects of glass caging is maintaining the balance of proper hydration and enclosure saturation. While the glass sides prevent overspray from leaving the enclosure, this is not the case with traditional screen enclosures. How do we handle the excess water that needs to leave the enclosure?
In the past, these issues have been addresses with a number of DIY methods to modify stock enclosures drilling glass for drainage is the pits! In steps the Dragon Strand Breeder Series enclosure. When I was asked to test out these enclosures for housing Uroplatus, I was ecstatic.
If glass enclosures were considered the heavyweight in the group of options, then this enclosure surely is the versatile and agile featherweight of the bunch. The weight differential is just too much to ignore.
The solid sides eliminate the issue of nose rub which happens when particularly aggressive hunters are housed in screen enclosures and the substrate and drainage trays truly make setup that much easier and consistent. The plastic panels enable easy installation of misters in a variety of positions while keeping the end result easy to maintain and visually appealing. I figured we could apply the same techniques that we use in glass enclosures to make this a fully functional yet visually appealing enclosure to house a group of Uroplatus. Assembly was rather self-explanatory and painless.
The enclosure screws together just like the traditional screen enclosures. Now that the enclosure has been assembled and inspected officially , we can begin hiding all of this white. For this project I chose to work with Great Stuff, which is expandable foam that can be found in most big box hardware stores.
As seen above, I began by taping the branch holders in case I wanted to utilize them in the future. These useful branch holders provide the benefit of offering a secure anchor in case a horizontal perching branch or decoration is desired at various levels above the cage floor. You have the option of installing any or all of the branch holders depending on your specific design.
My design has the branch holders installed, as I wanted to retain the ability to easily add branches in the future. Design yours to your own taste. The next step is where things can get fun…and messy! This stuff does not come off of clothes and will stick to skin like crazy glue. Once the foam has cured, it will be very solid. You can carve, sand and sculpt the foam to any desired shape or texture.
You imagination is the limit here. For the sake of time and preference I chose not to do any further modifications. Admittedly, it is a little tougher to reach all of the nooks and crannies so smoothing it down may make this step a bit easier for the some. Apply the silicon over a good portion of the area to be covered.
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Next, dump a good amount of very dry coco coir over the wet silicon. Once all of the excess has been vacuumed off, continue with another section, wait, vacuum and repeat. Once completed you should have something that resembles the following image. Notice the crevices that will require touching up after the initial covering. I used live fern moss to hide most of the crevices. This breaks up the appearance of the coco coir with a lovely splash of green life. Once the foam was covered, it should look similar to this.. The next thing we need to do is take care of the substrate and drainage trays.
With the drainage tray out of the way, we need to move onto the substrate tray. In order for the water to pass through the substrate and not linger too long we need to drill a few drainage holes. I say a few but really I meant many. Next cut a piece of fiberglass pet screen to prevent your substrate from falling into the drainage tray. Last but not least, a layer of oak leaves to top it all off. This helps disperse the water and acts as a barrier before the water has a chance to soak into the soil. The leaves also provide an environment for micro fauna to flourish which act like little janitors for your vivarium.
We add the bulkhead and mister assemblies to one side. The finished product! I did utilize the branch holders closest to the bottom. This allows me to remove the substrate tray with no rearranging required. The solid sides and back provide a clean slate to create any masterpiece you can dream of to match the requirements for many chameleon or Uroplatus species! The Medium Wide Breeder Cage comes in a screen front version and an acrylic front version. Five branch holders are included which may be installed in the walls.
They will form solid anchors to mount horizontal perching branches and will hold hanging plants. Both of these versions use the Large Breeder Drainage Tray. The guys there do a great job and are gearing up for a season that is not to miss! This is a publication by reptile people for reptile people and subscribing is a great way to be part of the community.
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